This hike climbs from Qeparo’s new part on the beach towards the upper village of Old Qeparo, perched on a cliff and overlooking the seemingly endless olive groves. Time seems to stand still in the maze of stone houses and cobbled streets. Afterwards, the hike leads further inland to the village of Kudhës, which takes you back in time and provides a glimpse of the former communist flair, with the lately restored center of the village sporting typical slogans praising Enver Hoxha and the party, a part of propaganda that was present everywhere in Albania during the regime.
Grab the chance for joining the locals drinking coffee or homemade raki at the bar of the village. The trailhead for this hike lies along the national road, and is located about 60 m from the junction where the road sign for Kudhës village is. Walking along the road in direction of the center,
the trail starts making its way up on a steep cobbled alley to your left, and shortly after turns into a small path leading through the neighbourhood built on the slope of the hill. As you hit the road for Upper Qeparo, you can already enjoy nice views towards the coast. Shortcut the serpentines by following the footpaths through the olive plantations. Once you enter the village, take some time to wander through the small alleys, past bandoned
and still inhabited houses. At the village square continue on straight and then take a right at the bar, following the unpaved road further inland. Keep right at both the first and second junction, and through olive groves, make your way up to the highest point, where you will find a water source. The wider gravel road becomes a small path, mostly but not always well visible, that leads away from the coast into the direction
of Kudhës, which you can soon catch sight of. After following the path along the slope of the mountain, you start your descent by aiming for the muddy gravel road that runs a few meters below the path, which at this point fades and splits up into several sheep’s trails through thorny shrubs. Follow the road, which will be wide and rocky in some parts, and a small trail in others, until it gently descends to the village of Kudhës and joins a gravel road, which eventually hits the steep cemented main road of the village. Ready yourself for your last uphill before arriving at the center of the village, with it’s large plane tree. The trip can be continued to the village of Kuç in Labëria highlands (5 h), unless you decide to enjoy the evening with a local family in one of the guesthouses. An option to make this a day hike is returning to Qeparo along the old national road down in the valley (2 h).